Horsekeeping and training, pets and art by Connie Moses
This video shows our 3 horses running through deep snow across a field, galloping to say hi to their neighbor horse friends. This was in mid-February.
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See my other videos of horses, dogs, snowboarding etc., on this blog (search term= video,) or go to YouTube.com and use search term= Horsepaintings (my username.)
Our three horses have been conditioned to come to the barn for their twice daily feedings when we ring a dinner bell. They learned this when we associated the bell-ringing with their grain feedings.
We try to make our horsekeeping as easy as possible, and because they are often as far away from the barn as they can go, we save ourselves tons of time and a long walk by ringing a really loud bell to signal them to come home. It probably helped when training them that the bell sounds a little like the clanking of coffee cans together (we portion their grain out in coffee cans, like many horse people do.)
Running thru snow to their dinner bell, mid-February video!
Oh yeah, they have to each go into their own designated stall before they are given their grain! Sometimes there is a little bit of musical stalls horseplay between the brothers, but they know the drill and sort themselves out! (Catch Glendale at the end of the video shifting into his own stall at the corner of the barn.)
We shut in Glendale the yearling til he finishes his grain, because (being a growing boy) he gets the most quantity, and his mother or brother will try to steal his after they finish their own; but by the time he is two he will be eating about the same amount as the others and we shouldn’t have to do that anymore.
After grain is finished, they share haypiles wherever we throw it, sometimes in their stalls, usually outside on the peastone gravel. I believe in feeding hay off the ground rather than from a hay rack or net, as it allows the horses’ nasal passages to drain in a natural way and potentially wards off heaves or haydust congestion.
Horses running back to barn for dinner, and Peaches playing with a stick! End of March video.
I will admit, in summertime when they are in the grass and getting a lot to eat, sometimes they are reluctant to come to the barn just for grain, because it means leaving their grass heaven! At those times we just have to go get them.
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See my other videos of horses, dogs, snowboarding etc., on this blog (search term= video,) or go to YouTube.com and use search term= Horsepaintings (my username.)
For those of you who have a new puppy, or plan to get one, this is a primer. First advice is, get books– and read on the internet– on the subject of raising and training dogs, with advice specific to puppies. General information will thus be found on housebreaking, obedience training, the nature of various breeds, health considerations, etc. From these resources you will learn about dog instincts and behavior, and how to read your dog’s expressions and body language so you can understand what she is saying.
There are many sizes and types of dogs and you will be most happy (and vice versa) with one who suits your personality, your lifestyle, and the living space you have available to give it!!! Seek out other dog owners through dog clubs and groups, also veterinarians; people are always happy to talk about their dogs and you can learn a ton this way.
DO YOUR RESEARCH on breeds BEFORE you look at puppies (if you want a purebred dog.) Keep in mind, mutts (term used with affection) can be terrific pets and can usually be had for free. Some purebred dog lines have become so inbred or bred for specific traits that weaknesses and even defects have been perpetuated. These problems can creep up on you later on and cause expense and heartbreak. Puppies of breeds subject to potential genetic issues can often be vetted and tested or evaluated before their purchase; the breeder should do this before selling. DO YOUR RESEARCH!
It is often advised not to purchase a puppy from a pet shop, due to the threat of inbreeding issues. Find a reputable breeder, and select from among several pups in a litter if possible. Observe how the littermates interact, how they have been raised, the personality of their mother, the attitudes of the breeder. STRONGLY CONSIDER adopting a shelter dog if you feel competent to judge dogs and to potentially do retraining (see my previous posts in Dogs for Dog Lovers category.)
Once you’ve done your breed research and narrowed down your choices of dog size and temperament, it’s time to go look at puppies! Again breed organizations can refer you to breeders, or find them in newspaper or magazine ads or bulletin boards in vet offices. You will be glad you decided in advance what breed or style of dog would suit you, because as soon you see a litter of puppies, it is extremely difficult not to walk away with one!
Prepare for the new dog before his first night in his new home; have his area(s) in the house determined, have his crate and/or doggie bed in place, his toys ready, baby gates in place if needed to keep him off carpets until he is reliably trained, his food on hand. You will feed what the breeder has been feeding at first, then gradually change to the food you choose or your vet recommends, if different.
FYI, the sellers of your dog will likely prove a wellspring of information, tips and advice. Be sure to pick their brains as to how the puppy has been started. They should also have lineage records and provide you the information needed for breed registry of your pup.
When your new pup moves in she will miss her brothers and sisters and her mom at first. Give her a comfy doggie bed– possibly inside a crate (read up on crate-training)– and provide her chew-toys, cuddly stuffed toys if you wish, and give her lots of attention. She will need company and may cry at night from loneliness; many a night has been spent by new puppy owners sleeping in the same room as the pup while they adjust.
Start her right out learning what you expect of her in her new life. Housebreaking is often started on newspapers or through crate-training. Read about various methods, then decide what is most convenient for you. You might wish to train the pup to use a designated area of the yard as his toilet (I wish we had!) Some dogs will go as far from the house as possible; our dog goes all over the place outside. The housebreaking process can be long and drawn out; be kind and patient, confine the pup to areas that are easily cleaned, keep telling yourself it’s just a baby. Just like toilet-training a child, the dog WILL learn eventually, when it is both mentally and physically able to.
Chewing is almost always a puppy challenge– like a teething baby, they explore their world by chewing. Your job is to teach her that certain things you provide are OK for her to chew on, and everything else is NOT. You must spend the time to monitor her, catch her the second she starts to chew a wrong thing, scold her gently and then substitute an appropriate item for an unacceptable one (call her first to a new location; praise her whenever you see her choose her own toy to chew.) There are tons of chew items available– doggie toys, chew biscuits, knotted ropes, rawhide strips, pigs ears– you’ll have fun learning which she likes the best! With any luck she’ll learn quickly; meantime, keep your good leather shoes or purse out of her reach!
PLAY with your puppy. That’s all he really wants to do anyway; make him happy and you’ll be rewarded with his undying love. Teach him to FETCH!! Yes, it CAN be taught; many breeds and dogs will learn it instinctively, but others can be shown how through rewarding them with puppy tidbits.
TRAIN your puppy!! I know, the word sounds boring– perhaps I should say HELP your puppy learn how to please you. That will make him happy too, almost as happy as playing! Leash train your pup, making it fun and keeping the sessions short, never painful. Classes are available for puppy and dog training and socialization. They are not just tricks or just obedience and control; the more things you teach your dog, the better becomes his understanding and acceptance of his place in your life and the world. He becomes more enjoyable to be around, safer to himself and others, and more secure and confident.
Touch your pup all over her body (first you have read the information on how to interpret her hreactions and body language.) Touch and handle her paws. Brush your puppy, for half a minute at a time, to get her used to the feel of being groomed. She will want to mouth you and chew on your hand at first, that is her way of playing and/or warning you that she’s uncomfortable; she must be gently scolded for this and your hand and attention removed from her mouth the instant it starts to happen (but do not cease handling her if that was what you were doing.) The dog should learn early that it is NEVER acceptable for her to put her teeth on a human.
Learn to be patient in all your interactions. Remember a puppy is a BABY and cannot be expected to figure out what you want overnight. Neither can you attribute human-type responses to him, he is NOT a small furry person.
Attend to his health needs by lining up a veterinarian and following his advice. Rabies shots will be required at about 6 months; others shots are advised for preventative reasons; heartworm medication is usually recommended. Many towns also require registering the dog for a small fee. Neuter your dog according to your vet’s advice at an appropriate age; you will be glad and the dog will be easier to live with.
Keep your dog safe by confining him to a safe area. Depending on his size and breeding, he will need an area to roam and to do his business. An invisible dog fence is a godsend, although not recommended usually for pups under 6 months of age, when they are able to learn the concepts and can be trained.
Socialize your puppy as early as possible, both to people and to other dogs. This may be very easy or more difficult depending on the exposure the pup had during his earliest rearing, and on whether he is sociable or shy by nature. Get him accustomed to people around him and many various situations outside of the home. Protect him from situations which make him fearful by gradually desensitizing him to such environments. Seek advice of professional dog trainers for any puzzling or difficult reactions or aggressive behavior.
Involve your dog in all your activities, make him part of your life. When you acquire a pet, they SHOULD be part of your life and YOU are the pet’s WHOLE UNIVERSE; if this sounds too tedious, perhaps you should not try to keep such a pet and consider one that requires less commitment.
It is quite possible to teach older dogs all these things, and is often done successfully. It is easier to do with a puppy which is mostly a clean slate. Your dog will provide you much enjoyment and satisfaction, and will remain a loved companion for its lifetime.
Please submit additions and your thoughts in comments below, thanks!
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